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DIY: Closed Course Motorsport LED Headlight Assembly


Are you a DIY kind of guy (or gal)? Like to do it yourself and save a few bucks? If so, this is for you. You procure all the parts yourself online, purchase the CCM reflectors and backplates here: BUY HERE and following the DIY below.


(2) VW Beetle RPM Headlight Assembly - 111 941 037 C

(2) Porsche H4 Trim rings - 911-631-933-01 (Black) or 911-631-933-00 (Chrome)

(2) Headlight Bucket To Fender Seals

(2) Mini H1 projectors 

(1) 60W LED Kit with 6000K bulbs 

(2) CCM projector back-plates with hardware for mounting projectors 

(2) CCM reflector shroud with city lights 

Closed Course Motorsport Bi-xenon Headlight Do it yourself Assembly:

Like most retrofit projector headlights, the headlight housing for the Closed Course Motorsport headlights are aftermarket VW Beetle RPM headlight assemblies which are available online from many retailers. Part number 1111 941 037 C. Two of these are required.

The assembly includes the headlight housing with adjustment hardware, clear lens, and chrome adjustment ring.

Step 1: Disassemble the headlight assembly.

The chrome trim ring and inner bulb ring are held together with spring clips.

Remove the spring clips around the chrome trim ring and adjustment screws to disassemble the lens.

Remove the screw that holds the Beetle turn signal terminal in place. Remove terminal assembly.

With the turn signal terminal removed, a hole is left in the housing.

Step 2: Disassemble the inner bulb holder assembly.

The inner assembly ring is held together with spring clips similar to those for the outer assembly. The clips are different, keep these separated from the outer clips.

Remove these clips and pull out the inner ring.

Step 3: Assembly of the Mini H1 projector bracket.

The Closed Course Motorsport projector back plate. This part mounts inside the headlight housing and holds the Mini H1 projector and allows minimal vertical and horizontal beam adjustment with the adjustment screws.  

The Beetle bulb holder ring is re-used to install the CCM projector back plate. The notches in the back plate line up with the bulb ring to assure proper alignment.

The notches in the back plate line up with the bulb ring to assure proper alignment.

The back plate is installed in the headlight housing with the top notch at 12 o’clock.

The ring is installed on top of the back plate and spring clips re-installed.

Back plate installed the in head light housing.

Step 4: Installation of the Mini H1 projectors.

Closed Course Motorsport Bi-level LED headlights utilize Mini H1 projectors with LED bulbs. 

The Mini H1 projector.

Due to clearance issues inside Porsche 911 fender headlight buckets, the projector needs to be shortened in the threaded area. Early VW bugs may or may not need this modification.

Remove all the screws holding the bulb holder and projector lens to the projector reflector

With the bulb holder removed, spin the aluminum nut down tight to the bulb reflector. This will be used as a spacer.

Drill pilot holes through the bulb holder screw holes

After the pilot holes are drilled, cut off the excess threaded part with a cut off wheel. Use the aluminum nut as a guide.

After the end is cut off, re-thread the holes with a m3x.5mm tap

Reassemble the projector assembly

The projector mounts to the back plate with 6-32 machine screws and nuts. They are spaced off the back with a nylon spacer. This is to recess the projector in the headlight housing and allow for heat dissipation.

Feed parking light wires through the back plate at this time. 

Step 5: Installation of the Closed Course Motorsport reflector.

The CCM reflector is manufactured by Closed Course Motorsport and is unique to this headlight assembly. The one piece construction of this reflector features a wedge bulb city light and projector shroud.

Note: The CCM reflectors are heat resistant to 150 degrees. Many HID bulbs run much hotter and may blister the reflector. Closed Course Motorsport recommends LED bulbs as they run much cooler. 

The CCM reflector has an extrusion on the bottom that snaps in place to the headlight housing via the VW beetle turn signal hole.

With the reflector installed, the rest of the assembly and projector is hidden.

Step 6: Lens selection:

The clear lens that comes with the VW beetle headlight assembly is an excellent choice for a clean and simple installation. However, if the clear look is not your preference, a symmetrical fluted lens will also work.

Left to right: Clear lens, H4 asymmetrical fluted lens, symmetrical fluted lens.

The clear lens is an affordable option as it comes with the VW beetle headlight assembly.

This lens with the projector produces a clean beam cutoff.

A Porsche Bosch H4 lens is an attractive option; however the beam cutoff is sacrificed due to the asymmetrical fluting.

A symmetrical fluted lens is a happy medium. The symmetrical fluting only mildly distorts the beam and cutoff.

Step 7: Reassembly of the headlight assembly

The chrome adjustment ring is replaced by an aftermarket Porsche “H4” headlight adjustment ring. Part number 911-631-933-01. Two of these are required. These rings come primed black and are ready to paint. 

The Porsche H4 rings have the (2) adjustment screws in the same location as the chrome rings, but the H4 rings have the correct hole for securing the headlight to the fender.


Prior to installing the springs, install the CCM reflector and set the glass against the assembly.

Install the trim ring by first loosely threading the screw and spring into the adjustment tabs. Once both screws are loosely installed, tighten both so the ring holds the glass onto the assembly, but not too tightly that the glass cannot be rotated with your palm. When both screws are firmly secured, check the glass to ensure the arrow mark is at 12 or 6 o’clock points. It is your choice to have the fluted area at the top or bottom

When the trim ring is installed with the glass in the correct position, the springs are ready to be installed. 

The springs that hold the headlight trim ring and glass to the housing can be very tricky, but by following these steps it can be done very simply and easily. 

The springs have a long leg and a short leg. Always keep the long leg on the right, no matter the location of the headlight. With the long leg on the right, both legs of the spring tilt outward, away from the assembly and into a groove in the trim ring.

The use of a small forked tool, like a flat screw driver with a groove, makes compression and seating of the short leg easy. Doing this without a tool and only using your fingers is very difficult and can become frustrating very quickly.


The spring clips are installed with the long leg first, then compressing the spring and seating the short leg, moving around the light in a counter-clockwise fashion. There are 6 spring clips, 3 on each side originally, but they get in the way on the 911, only 2-3 are needed. Install the first spring at the longer adjustment screw location (7 o’clock position) with the long leg of the spring wrapping around the adjustment screw.

The second spring to be installed is on the opposite side at the 2 o’clock position, again wrapping around the adjustment screw.

No springs are installed at the top or bottom.

Roughly adjust the projector by squeezing the assembly and tightening the adjustment screws. Some minor adjustment can be done when the lights are installed by turned the screws, but major adjustments should be done outside the car.


Step 8: Stock Headlight Removal and Prep for Installation of CCM Lights

NOTE: The RPM headlight assemblies are great for fiberglass fenders or early fenders that do not have the (4) tabs pictured below. If your fenders do have these tabs, they will need to be removed or bent to allow installation of the head light assembly. 

These cars were hand built. Every car is a little different. The space between the bulb and the fender bucket is tight. Some cars there is no interference, others require massaging of the back of the bucket for additional clearance. 


Stock "Sugar Scoop" headlights.

Tape of area with blue painters tape to prevent scratches while removing and installing the lights.

Remove the stock headlights.

Clean the inside of the bucket and bend the tabs forward with a hammer and pliers.

Step 9: Wiring

Make a small pigtail with a waterproof female spade connector

Remove the female spade connector from the Porsche connector for the parking lights. Wrap the wire for the pigtail around the existing female spade connector to tap into it.

Solder the new wire in place

Wrap connection in electrical tape and re-install into Porsche connector

Plug in H4 or H5 plug and spade connection for parking light

Install LED bulb into projector with spring clip. The LED bulbs are a tight fit, but wiggle them in and they will seat. 

Plug in LED kit into wire harness and bulb.

Relay harness 

The way the 911 is wired from the factory does not allow the high beams and low beams to be on at the same time. Since the HID kit requires the low beam to be on at all times, a relay harness is used. 

Dorkiphus explains the stock wiring well here:


The stock wiring does not allow the high beams to be on when the low beams are on and vise versa, but with a relay harness and a rectifier diode, both can be on at the same time. 

For reference, this is how a relay works and what it does:

Basically, a simple relay will have 4 wires:

Power - Terminal 30 - Connected to the battery

Ground - Terminal 85 - Connect to battery or good body ground

Signal - Terminal 86 - This tells the relay to turn on. For ease of reference below this is the "In" wire

Output - Terminal 87 - This wire will have 12v power when terminal 86 is signaled. For ease of reference below this is the "Out" wire

The Morimoto HID kits come with a relay harness, but it needs to be modified. 

The Morimoto relay harness is designed to plug directly into the ballasts. This works great, but requires running the leads though the fender and into the head light bucket. The stock wires already make the trip from the fuse box, so no need to re-run them.

Start by removing the shrink wrap that holds all the wires together at the relays. Label each relay to keep the wires straight. 

Cut the red input wires off the harness. These are connected to terminal 86, or the relay "in" wires. This relay harness was designed to plug into a light bulb socket for the signals, we will be tapping into the signals at the fuse box. 

Similar to the note above, this harness was designed to be grounded through the light socket. We will be grounding at the battery or body ground. Cut the ground lead off the harness.

Solder the ground lead to the two black wires off the relays. These go to terminal 85 on the relays.

Install heat shrink on the connection

In order to keep the low beam relay on when the high beam switch is activated, we will use a rectifier diode. A rectifier diode only allows electricity to flow one direction. Many companies make these, part number IT4004 if often used for this purpose. 

By installing a rectifier diode from the high beam "out" to the low beam "in", the high beam output will tigger the low beam input and keep the HID ballast turned on. The gray end of the diode is installed on the red wire, or the down stream flow of electricity.

If the diode was not installed, the low beam input from the light switch would get a back feed from the high beam output. The diode blocks the back feed, only allowing electricity to flow from high to low. 

Solder the diode in place with a length of extra red wire.

Install heat shrink on both the wires.

Install a third piece of heat shrink over both wires

Now solder on another length of red wire to the high beam input.

Tie all the wires together with a zip tie so the 4 input/output wires are pointed up. Label all wires. 

Install 3/4" heat shrink over the wire bundle to hold it all together.Install water proof butt connectors on the output wires.

Relay harness with rectifier diode bridge all together

Relay harness installation:

Remove the carpet around the fuse box, remove the fuse box cover, locate the high and low circuits in the fuse box. These are the blue and yellow wires on the bottom of the fuse box, white and yellow on the top of the fuse box. 

Remove the blue and yellow wires from the fuse box. Strip the ends and twist the two blue and two yellow wires together. 

Using a waterproof butt connector, connect the wires above to the "out" (blue wires) of the relays. 

Blue to the high beam relay. Yellow to the low beam relay. 

Install the "input" (red wires) of the relays into the fuse box where the blue and yellow wires were removed. 

Tuck the relays away and secure them with a zip tie to the battery cables. 

Install the battery "-" side of the relay harness to a good ground location, such as the grounding point to the left of the fuse box. 

Install the battery + side of the relay harness directly to the battery

Everything installed

Replace fuse box cover

Replace carpet

Step 10: Install Lights

The headlight housing secures to the fender via the single screw at the bottom of the trim ring.

If you have ever installed a stock 911 headlight and seal, you know this can be a trying process. The Closed Course Motorsport Bi-xenon HID projector headlights are no more difficult (or easier) to install than stock headlights.

First install the o-ring seal on the fender

Hook the top of the H4 trim ring onto the tab at the top of the fender. You may have to push in and down for it to catch.

Work the light towards the bottom until you can install the screw at the bottom

NOTE: The VW beetle headlight adjustment screw offer very little alignment adjustment. Large alignment adjustments must be made with the assembly outside the car. Aim the projector to point down and inward, then snug up the adjustment screws to hold the alignment in place. Install on the car. Minor further adjustment can be made with the screws. Remove the lights and repeat the process until the desired alignment is achieved.

Installed pictures with clear lens

Installed pictures with fluted lens

City light wired to parking lights